How I Spent My Summer Vacation v1.4

Day Five. Bye-bye New Orleans…Hello Orange Beach

     A good friend from my teaching days at the University knows how much I enjoy New Orleans and Key West so he recommended Orange Beach, Alabama as a place I might like. We left New Orleans on U.S. Highway 90 along the coast and by mid-afternoon we were in Ocean Springs, Mississippi. I had read about the life and art of Walter Anderson in Gunnar Hansen’s book, Islands at the Edge of Time. Anderson was an eclectic naturalist and artist that lived in Ocean Springs and spent much of his time on Horn Island, which lies about 12 miles out in the Gulf across the Mississippi Sound. Anderson died in 1965 at the age of sixty-two. His family still owns Shearwater Pottery in Ocean Springs.

     In 1951 Walter Anderson painted a mural on the interior walls of the Oceans Springs Community Center. His work was so immediately disliked the local citizens wanted to paint over it. After the criticism he basically became a recluse living most of his life on Horn Island.

     The afternoon we stopped in Ocean Springs the Community Center was closed because they were restoring Walter Anderson’s murals. We were able to tour a small museum next door and see some examples of Anderson’s work, watercolors and pottery. I can say his work is definitely “unique”. From the amount of replications available for sale I would say he is, in death, a thriving resource for Ocean Springs.


Sign on Men's bathroom door
at Alabama reststop

      By early evening we had arrived in Orange Beach. I was a bit surprised, very tidy and neat and touristy. I suppose I was expecting something a bit more bohemian. We stayed at the recommended Island House, which was very nice but more like a condominium hotel than the beach retreat I was hoping for. Don’t get me wrong, lovely place, but I was in the mood for a more original experience, sometimes “rustic” can be nice. However, the beach was nice, the pool relaxing, good places to eat nearby so we stayed on for a few days.

Oktoberfest in Missouri Wine Country

Saturday dawned warm and bright with brilliant autumn colors abounding. Since all indications were for a beautiful fall day we decided to take a daytrip to Hermann, Missouri. Hermann is on the south bank of the Missouri River in the heart of Missouri wine country, only a few hours from our house, and every October weekend is an Oktoberfest celebration.

We ate a breakfast of apples and almonds in the car as we drove. By mid-morning we had arrived at the Stone Hill Winery, high on a hilltop above the little town of Hermann. The party was already well underway. We took a quick tour of the winery and did some sampling of their wide variety of wines. Stone Hill, like most Midwest wineries, makes some nice sweet wines but just doesn’t produce a really good dry white or red. They are trying with their Norton grape but in my opinion it still lacks the nose and fruity taste of the west coast or European wines. The vignoles and traminette are getting better but still remind me of table grapes more than wine. But any wine on such a beautiful autumn day in such a wonderful locale is glorious. We had a late lunch of bratwurst, kraut, German potato salad and chunky applesauce that was so very good and matched well with a bottle of their dry vignoles.

In the afternoon we went down the hill to downtown Hermann and did a walk-through of the Hermannhof Winery. I was wined out by that time and was happy to see a new microbrewery, TinMill Brewery. The beer was cold and hoppy, a nice complement to the sweetness of the wines. I especially liked their light amber, Red Caboose. A lively polka and more group called The St. Louis Czech Express Band was playing on the back patio and was drawing a large, happy and inebriated crowd. We ended staying and drinking their brew and people watching until they closed at 6pm.

At dusk we wondered just down the street to a crowded bar with a big screen TV and ate pizza and drank more Red Caboose, augmented by Budweiser, and watched the St. Louis Cardinals trounce the Texas Rangers in the third game of the World Series.

It was a long drive back to Kansas City, luckily I had a sober driver. We pulled into the driveway, locked up the car, and tumbled into bed, exhausted and slept like babies. It had been a wonderful day.

How I Spent My Summer Vacation v1.3

Day Four: A Perfect Day in New Orleans
     Before we moved on along the coast we decided to spend another day enjoying New Orleans. Last time I had visited the city all the streetcar lines were running except the St. Charles line. It was still down from damage due to Hurricane Katrina. The St. Charles line is my favorite street car ride. I go from Canal Street out through the warehouse district and the Garden District to S. Carrollton Ave. and back.
     It was still early morning, just after rush hour, but the day was already building to be hot and humid. We decided to take the St. Charles streetcar out to the Camellia Grill for a late breakfast. The car was mostly empty and didn’t stop very much. Most of the windows were down and as we rushed along the breeze flowing across my face felt wonderful.
     At the end of St. Charles we got off and walked across the street to our breakfast destination. I had heard that the Camellia Grill was a great place for breakfast. Regretfully, I wasn’t that impressed. Yes, it does have old south charm, with the waiters running around in their white jackets but in the end it is just a diner. I thought the food was on the level of a Waffle House. Perhaps I just over-anticipated.
     We walked back through the Garden District to the Audubon Zoo. It was getting hot so we hopped the streetcar back to Canal Street and started to walk the French Quarter. As is common along the Gulf, the early afternoon humidity turned to light sun-showers. We were walking along Dauphine Street when large drops of moisture began to pelt the hot sidewalk. At that moment I spotted a used book store. Now I am a sucker for any used bookstore, but in New Orleans, on a rainy afternoon, what more could you ask for. And it was just the type of place you would expect, crammed to the rafters with piles of old books, barely enough room to walk the aisles. I was in heaven.

264 Dauphine Street, New Orleans

     The storm didn’t last long and in an hour we were on our way. I left Dauphine Street Books with an early work by Robert Ruark I had been unable to find, “Grenadine's Spawn”, and Ruth walked out with a New Orleans Dave Robicheaux mystery thriller by James Lee Burke. As we were only a couple of blocks away from the Acme Oyster House we stopped by for early afternoon oysters and a martini or two. After an afternoon swim at the Hotel Pierre and a creole dinner at the Gumbo Shop, one of my favorite places for seafood and orka gumbo, followed by a bit of music on Bourbon Street we were in bed still at an early hour. Yes, a very nice day indeed.

Autumn Was Here?

     I know the leaves on the trees have been turning colors all month; but the weather has been so gloriously perfect it seemed as if summer never left. Then suddenly last night there was a frost warning and I found myself hustling to get the indoor plants (the ones that had been enjoying their summer in the semi-shade of the front porch) back in the house.
     Each year I vow I will not get stuck with this emergency plant moving again, but as usual, I was caught unprepared. And I’m talking about BIG plants, the Norfolk Pine and tree-size schefflera. They have been with me for so many years they are like members of the family; and have grown so large they require a moving dolly to truck them around.    
     Was it just last Sunday we took our boat out of the lake for the year? Right now it is trailered in the driveway waiting for a turn at the local boat yard to get winterized. It seems only a few weeks ago that we were launching her for the summer. Well next year…

How I Spent My Summer Vacation v1.2

Sunday. June 5, 2011.

Day Three. Deep in the Heart of Acadiana.

     Sunday morning, after an early breakfast and a quick swim we were off. Our plan was to drive through the heart of Acadiana and eventually end up in New Orleans. Our route took us from Breaux Bridge, the self-proclaimed crawfish capitol of the world, to St. Martinville on Bayou Teche and home of the Evangeline Oak named for Longfellow’s 1847 epic poem that was supposedly taken from Acadian folk history. At New Iberia we saw the sign to Avery Island, not actually an island but a salt dome in the Louisiana swamp, owned by the McIlhenny family and home of Tabasco hot sauce so we just had to visit even though they weren’t bottling on Sunday. Check the link, it has an interesting history. While there we had a late lunch of red beans and rice with boudin and corn maque choux (a first for me). We washed it all down with an Abita Amber (out of the cooler, certainly not available on Avery Island).

     Even though it was getting late we decided to move on to New Orleans. The rest of the drive was uneventful unless you get a kick out of swamp. Just before dusk, on a beautiful early summer evening we arrived in New Orleans. This is one of my favorite cities. The old south, the Caribbean, Europe and Africa all seem to meet here; which results in a delightful blend of culture and people with never a shortage of unique characters.

     Last time we were in the Crescent City, while walking the backside of the Vieux Carre we came across a small hotel and cottages that looked delightful. So we headed directly to Burgundy Street and were happy to find one of the Hotel St. Pierre’s cottage rooms available at a very reasonable price. Soon we were shuttered in beside a beautiful little brick patio with a frangipani tree in full bloom. We had just enough daylight left to venture over to Iberville Street and have a couple dozen fresh oysters on the half shell at the Acme Oyster House. This time washed down with a frigid gin martini. After a quick stop at Matassa’s Market for a bottle of gin, tonic, lime and a Creole tomato and were back to the hotel just as Bourbon Street was beginning to come alive for the night.

How I Spent My Summer Vacation v1.1

Friday, June 3, 2011.
An All-Nighter to Louisiana

Our goal was to enjoy ourselves as we toured the gulf coast as economically as possible. A friend that has traveled the southeast told me he never makes reservations, just stops at a place that looks good. This gives him more leeway in his travels and he said he hasn’t had any trouble finding a place. Another friend that tours Europe said he and his wife, to save money and still enjoy the local cuisine, carry a cooler in the trunk of their rental car with delicious, local snacks. They only eat one expensive meal a day and picnic the rest of the time.

I have always been one to over plan my vacations. I like to know exactly what I am going to do and where I will be staying. I often spend more time worrying about keeping to my timetable than enjoying my vacation. So, it was difficult at first for me to travel in this more carefree and, hopefully, less expensive way.

After giving all the plants a good watering and then chasing the cat down, we didn’t get out of Kansas City until noon. We had decided to stay off the Interstate highways as much as possible so we took US 71 that runs from International Falls, MN, through Kansas City, deep into Louisiana. By early evening we stopped at a roadside park in Arkansas, popped the trunk and had sandwiches out of our cooler. We were still fresh and excited so we decided to keep driving. And we did until midnight, all the way to a rest stop in Acadia, Louisiana, where both of us, being sleepy, fell fast asleep.

Saturday, June 4, 2011.

Back on the Road Again

At 3am we were back on the road. We made it to Lafayette, Louisiana just after sunrise. After cruising the town a few times we selected a local redneck diner, called Mel’s for a breakfast of Cajun Eggs Benedict on a biscuit with grits.

I must say at this point our iPhones and several apps were crucial in making this a successful trip. Even though we were taking it one day at a time the apps allowed us to see what was in town and what we might want to do. We especially used Trip Advisor. And with the Map app we usually knew exactly where we were.

While it was still early and cool we made a visit to the local swamp, Bayou Vermillion and the Jean Lafitte Cultural Center where a nice local lady filled us in about Acadiana and Cajuns. After exploring the bayou, the afternoon heat and humidity was becoming oppressive. As luck would have it we stumbled across a local place called Artmosphere. I love unique local bars and dives. The fresh pizza “Lissa”, the ice cold Abita Amber beer, and the local characters were all superb.

It was at the bar that we learned about the Blue Moon Saloon, a place the locals gather for Cajun music and dancing. And it just happened that evening was a big night with several different groups playing.

The beer made us sleepy so we headed back out to the highway to get a room at the La Quinta Inn which was the cheapest we could find on Trip Advisor. After an afternoon swimming in the pool, we napped until time to get ready for the party.

An Evening in Acadia. Music, Food and Drink

Blue Moon Saloon, Lafayette, Louisiana.

The Saloon was having the Eight Annual fund raiser for “Archive Aid”.  The Center for Cultural and Eco-Tourism and the Archives of Cajun and Creole folklore at the University of Louisana - Lafayette work to document and preserve much of the local cajun music before it is lost. For $10 you got admission to hear four or five bands and all you could eat jambalaya. You had to buy your own booze which seemed to be flowing rather freely. The crowd was mixed: young, old, brown, white, and everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves. Unlike here in Kansas City, most everyone danced. Although they seemed to divide into two groups, the stompers and the gliders.

The bands were also diverse ages. One group would be old, another very young and still another multiple ages. My wife said the Cajuns reminded her a bit of the Ozarks people that live were I’m from in southern Missouri. She said the only difference is they seem to be having a lot more fun. I think that may be due to the difference between Catholics and Baptists and good beer drinkers and tee-totalers. They were still going strong when we left around midnight, totally fatigued but happy. Ca C’est bon!